This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri took over Scotland, presenting her vision of the powerful Dior woman in the gardens of Drummond Castle in Edinburgh. She also unveiled multiple collaborations with local textile manufacturers, including Harris Tweed, Johnstons of Elgin, Esk Cashmere, and ceremonial headwear designer Robert Mackie.
Maria Grazia Chiuri enjoys following in the footsteps of Maison’s founder, Christian Dior. This time, she continued the story of Dior’s 1955 Spring/Summer collection, which was showcased in the grand hall of the Gleneagles Hotel in Perthshire, Scotland, during a charity ball. To add an extra surprise, she even “posted” some images from that 1955 collection, embedding them onto the edges of kilts, T-shirts, and cropped jackets in her designs. Chiuri has a passion for historical references, and her straightforward approach proved highly effective once again. It feels like flipping through an old photo album filled with images of relatives—taking a nostalgic trip down memory lane.
Models strolled through the lush green gardens of Drummond Castle in Edinburgh—often called the “Versailles of Scotland” due to its resemblance to French gardens—accompanied by the most iconic Scottish instrument, the bagpipes. The performance was led by Finlay MacDonald and pipers from the National Piping Centre. The models wore impeccable versions of one of Scotland’s most important patterns—tartan, which was omnipresent throughout the collection. Shades of royal purple, crimson red, and hunter green adorned dresses, skirts, coats, and capes, all reimagined through the lens of tartan. Sometimes the designs carried a punk attitude—an homage to Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood—while at other times, they leaned towards a more classic aesthetic, but always remained elegant. It’s no wonder that Christian Dior, a devoted fan of Scotland who often traveled there, once wrote in his bestselling The Little Dictionary of Fashion: “This may be the only fancy fabric that can resist the whims of fashion.”
Mary Stuart, also known as Mary, Queen of Scots, was another major reference for this collection. Maria Grazia Chiuri cited Embroidering Her Truth: Mary, Queen of Scots and the Language of Power by writer, historian, and artist Clare Hunter as a key inspiration. Mary Stuart frequently traveled between Scotland and France, and she had a deep appreciation for ornate ball gowns with puffed sleeves, intricate patterns, and luxurious fabrics. She viewed fashion as the perfect diplomatic tool to showcase how different nations could come together to create beauty. A modern-day Mary Stuart would surely agree—fashion indeed builds bridges.
True to her tradition, Maria Grazia Chiuri spotlighted local craftsmanship in her cruise collection. This time was no exception. She gave center stage to Scotland’s renowned textile artisans, including Harris Tweed, whose fabrics are still meticulously woven by a unique network of island craftsmen using foot-pedal looms in their homes. Johnstons of Elgin also contributed to the collection, while the family-run business Esk Cashmere provided knitwear and cashmere pieces. Headwear was entrusted to ceremonial hat designer Robert Mackie, whose artisans worked closely with Maison’s collaborator Stephen Jones to craft Scottish-inspired hats reminiscent of those worn by military bands. Additionally, some of the kilts were designed in collaboration with young Scottish designer Samantha McCoach, the creative mind behind the popular brand Le Kilt, who is bridging the gap between tradition and the new generation.
Scotland is the birthplace of many rock bands—AC/DC, Nazareth, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Primal Scream, Franz Ferdinand, and more—so it’s no surprise that the collection incorporated some quintessential rock-star elements. Think hardware belts, choker necklaces, military-green trench coats, edgy slogan embroidery, vinyl mini-skirts, and rivet-studded denim. There were also pearls, crystal-adorned chainmail, and regal black velvet reminiscent of the era of James I. Thistles and unicorns—the symbols of Scotland—were embroidered onto extravagant, decadent sheer lace gowns. And, of course, no Scottish-inspired collection would be complete without hunting boots and riding boots, both of which made their way onto the runway.
To top it all off, it didn’t rain during this Dior Resort show—a rare blessing in Scotland. Pure magic!
